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Feed Your People

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Published by powerHouse Books on 2018-07-10
Hardcover: $39.95
COOKING


When we feed people, we also feed ourselves—literally and spiritually.

Sharing a meal is one of life’s greatest pleasures and a powerful and intimate way to create community. Feed Your People offers big-batch recipes from big-hearted chefs and cooks for the foods we gather around.

Starting with an introduction to big-batch cooking, this book features dishes by Alice Waters, Bryant Terry, Gonzalo Guzman, Joyce Goldstein, Tanya Holland, Dennis Lee, Preeti Mistry, and other generous cooks who know how to feed a crowd. You will find ideas and practical information for creating dumpling dinners, vegetarian suppers, meatball fund-raisers, soup swaps, chili cook-offs, seafood boils, backyard barbecues, ice cream socials, and so much more. Most recipes are scaled to feed groups of approximately 10 or 20 people with make-ahead strategies, equipment information, and serving suggestions for rounding out the meal.

From simple comfort foods to show-stopping recipes, you’ll discover centerpiece dishes that feature global flavors, like tamales, rustic minestrone soup, Gujarati-inspired chili, big-pan paella, homemade gnocchi, Korean bo ssäm, fork-tender carnitas, seafood boils, Provençal-style grand aioli with roasted salmon, a chocolatey Texas sheet cake, slab pies, trifles, and other foods that will help you celebrate life’s many special occasions.

Gorgeously illustrated with vivid color photography and filled with tips and cooking wisdom, we hope this book will inspire you to gather your friends, family, and community around the table.


(Hardcover, 2018-07-10)
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ASIN: 157687804X
ISBN: 9781576878040
EAN: 9781576878040

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BIG-BATCH, BIG-HEARTED COOKING AND RECIPES TO GATHER AROUND LESLIE JONATH with 18 REASONS Photographs by Molly DeCoudreaux Brooklyn, NY

CONTENTS Foreword.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1. how to feed your people . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2. small bites, big parties.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Empanadas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Alicia's Tamales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Chinese Dumplings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Nepalese Momos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Onigiri Party .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Potato Latkes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 3. one-bowl gatherings: soups and stews. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Minestrone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Little Cranberry Chicken Potpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Mile End Deli's Matzo Ball Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 New England Fish and Clam Chowder.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Black Bean Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 El Real's Chili Con Carne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Chili Cook-Off. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Grandma Salazar's Chile Verde.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 New Orleans Red Beans and Rice.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Cornbread.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Mom's Guju Chili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Chickpea Curry Soup (aka The Hippie Curry).. . . . . 85 Whole-Loaf Garlic Cheese Bread .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 4. pasta, noodles, and rice. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Le Polpette della Mama (Mama's Meatballs).. . . . . . . . . 93 Lasagna al Forno .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Fresh Pasta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Big Night Timpano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Potato Gnocchi with Pesto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Poole's Diner Macaroni au Gratin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Big Pan Seafood Paella. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 How to Host a Pasta Supper.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Sesame Noodles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 5. meat and poultry: braises, roasts, grills, and fries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Wine-Braised Brisket. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Porchetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Porchetta Rustica .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Pomegranate-Braised Lamb Shanks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Carnitas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Korean Crispy Pork Belly (Bo Ss'm). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Old-School Chicken Parm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Senegalese Grilled Chicken with Lime-Onion Sauce (Yassa Ginaar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159

Fried Chicken and Cornmeal Waffles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Root Beer Barbecued Spareribs.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Santa Maria-Style Tri-Tip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Thai Curry Chicken Wings (Phat Garlee Peek Gai). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 6. seafood boils, bakes, and roasts.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Bollywood Theater Spicy Shrimp Curry .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Dolphin Club Dungeness Crab Feed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Louisiana Shrimp and Crab Boil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Grilled Clambake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Grand Aioli with Roasted Salmon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Baked Whole Rockfish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Herbed Baked Fish with Pearl Couscous.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 7. from the garden: vegetables and salads. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Potato Gratin with Bacon-Thyme Bread Crumbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Ratatouille. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Two Great Grain Salads. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Roasted Eggplant with Smoky Yogurt and Spicy Almonds. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Call-It-What-You-Will Cobb Salad .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Grits with Grilled Vegetables. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Frittata with Charred Leeks, Roasted Grapes, and Camembert. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Cherry Tomato Tart with Anchovies and Garlic Confit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Italian White Bean Salad with Tuna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Cooking a Big Batch of Beans. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 8. sweet gatherings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Challah Cinnamon Rolls with Cream Cheese Icing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Buttermilk Chess Slab Pie.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Lemon-Blueberry Trifle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Cookie Exchange.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Ultimate Butter Cake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Texas Sheet Cake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Ice Cream Social . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 How to Host an Ice Cream Social. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Orange and Almond Cake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Bake Sale Brownies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Ice Cream Sandwiches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Frog Hollow Farm Fruit Crisp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Old-School Southern Coconut Custard Pie . . . . . . . . 284 Big Batch Peach Jam Can. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Chef Biographies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Permissions.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Acknowledgments.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Table of Equivalents. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303

'

? foreword Why would a cooking school open its doors once a month to serve a $10 dinner to eighty people? The 18 Reasons Community Dinner began when our students, friends, and neighbors asked to spend more time in our beautiful classroom, not taking cooking classes but simply connecting with one another. We decided that a $10 dinner, changing every month according to who was cooking it and what we wanted to celebrate (red beans and rice for Mardi Gras, barbecued ribs in July), would be a fun way to bring people in. Community Dinner is now our most popular offering; as I write, it is regularly sold out for months in advance. At 18 Reasons, we aim to inspire home cooks to learn new skills, maximize the knowledge and resources they already have, and spend more time cooking and sharing food with family and friends. As corporations promise to take care of us in every way, from driving us to work to feeding us a hot meal at the end of the day, reclaiming the simple act of cooking gives us an incomparable awareness of ourselves as human beings in control of our own lives. Cooking reminds us that we are capable of taking care of ourselves and others, and that this care makes our communities and families stronger and more connected. Each month, we teach as many as seventy-five free cooking classes to low-income adults, teens, kids, and families, partnering with more than one hundred schools, clinics, community centers, and shelters each year. We teach another twenty-four paid classes in our classroom every month, on topics that vary from Basic Knife Skills to Flavors of the Malaysian Coast. At the end of each class, free or paid, we gather together to eat what we have made, to talk about what we have learned, and to enjoy one another's company. For immigrant moms, struggling low-wage workers, kids who rely on free school meals to keep their bellies full, and busy professionals alike, the act of sitting together and eating brings a sense of joy, empowerment, and community. I am known within our little organization for always enthusiastically saying 'yes!' to new ideas and projects, and when Leslie approached me to ask if 18 Reasons would partner with her to create this book, I knew immediately that Feed Your People aligned perfectly with what we do every day. Whether you are making the Buttermilk Chess Slab Pie for a barbecue or inviting your friends over for a dumpling-making party, I encourage you to use this book as a starting place for food gatherings large and small. I'm sure you will be inspired not only to cook the delicious recipes you'll find in these pages, but also to take some of your own favorite recipes and figure out how to scale them for your community. One of my favorite moments at any Community Dinner is when newcomers check in with me, look nervously at the rows of communal tables, and ask, 'What do I do now'? 'Dinner is on its way,' I tell them'with two seatings an hour apart, we serve our guests as soon as they arrive. 'Go ahead, sit down, and make new friends!' At first they hesitate, but once eight people are squeezed around a table for a delicious dinner, they find that friendship comes naturally. I hope you feel the same way as you get to know the chefs and recipes in these pages, and that you are inspired to bring your community together for many fantastic meals to come. Sarah Nelson Executive Director, 18 Reasons

? introduction Every year my family throws a 'latke-and-vodka? party. Well ahead of the event, my mom makes and fries batches of latkes and freezes them. After about a month of on-and-off cooking, she'll have made as many as two hundred potato pancakes. She and my father then pack them up in a cooler and deliver them to my house. At the party, she reheats them in the oven, while my dad leads the crowd in vodka shots with pickle chasers. Friends bring desserts and wine. What started as a small gathering has now grown to eighty people: friendships have been forged and even a romance or two have blossomed. For our family and friends, latkes and vodka are a beloved yearly ritual. But as much as people love latkes, the party's main appeal is that it brings everyone together. Family food traditions are often centered around holidays. But people regularly cook for others in all kinds of ways'at cooking clubs, cook-offs, harvest gatherings, bake sales and other fund-raisers, and, of course, family celebrations that range from weddings and birthdays to memorials. Creating community through food is what this book is about. Two questions inspired it: how do we gather and what are the foods we gather around? After hosting and cooking for many large parties on my own, I noticed that the best events were those that featured a spectacular main course. Once there was a main dish, it was simple to ask my friends to bring things like small bites, side dishes, beverages, and desserts to round out the meal. If someone was at a loss for an idea or even a recipe, it was easy to provide one. Even if we didn't all cook the meal in the same kitchen, it was still a wonderful group effort. Building a party around one incredible dish can be cause for celebration. Just saying you are serving paella will draw a crowd, as will a promise of platters of tender carnitas and warm tortillas for a neighborhood taco feast. Racks of ribs star at backyard barbecues, a big pot of soup feeds a community dinner easily and inexpensively, a bumper crop of peaches inspires a block-long jam can, a huge batch of meatballs becomes a local fund-raiser, a pan of brownies can be shared at a cookie exchange or toted to a bake sale'all of them great candidates for a get-together. Sharing a meal is a powerful way to build community. One night, facing an empty refrigerator, I decided to attend the monthly neighborhood dinner at 18 Reasons, a Bay Area nonprofit in San Francisco's Mission District. I had long known about this wonderful organization that brings people together for community dinners and for classes on cooking traditions from around the world, from Peru and El Salvador to Thailand and beyond. It also offers Cooking Matters classes to low-'income families all over the Bay Area. On the night I went to the community supper, which was served family-style on long wooden tables, I was a little nervous as a single diner, but my apprehension melted when so many nice people greeted me. Plate loaded with food, I sat down near a family who immediately invited me into their conversation. The experience confirmed my feeling that there is no easier way to meet and connect with people than at the table, an idea that anchors the community philosophy on which 18 Reasons is built. That first dinner led to the wonderful partnership that has created

? this book. Together, we organized meals to test the recipes and feed the community at the same time. As a cookbook editor for many years, I have met many cooks and chefs for whom cooking for a large group of friends is easy and joyful. Perhaps you know someone like this'a person who seems relaxed in the kitchen and constantly pulls people together to eat, drink, and enjoy the moment. In that spirit, we approached a number of these 'feeders? who generously shared their crowd-'pleasing dishes. Some cooks shared their all-time-great showstoppers, beloved (yet time-intensive) dishes that you would only make for a crowd. You can't make a timpano (the baked pasta dish made famous in the film Big Night) for less than fifteen people, a trifle by its very nature will feed at least twenty, and there is no such thing as small-batch porchetta. Some cooks provided go-to recipes that are simple to scale. Above all we wanted to include a range of dishes that people would enjoy gathering around. With some savvy planning, this collection of great recipes (and a few fellow cooks by your side), we hope this book will encourage you to host big-hearted gatherings for your family and friends. Leslie Jonath

1. how to feed your people IF YOU WANT to throw a party but are feeling overwhelmed, here is the best tip for cooking for a crowd: don't go it alone. When you feed your people, the best part is being with your people. When I first started throwing parties, I would do all of the shopping and prepping by myself and then cook all day and night. I was so tired by the time the guests arrived that I wanted to say 'Feed yourselves, people!' and then climb into bed. Now, when I'm cooking for a crowd, I have at least two or three friends'and hopefully my mother'working in the kitchen with me. That makes preparing for the party as much fun as the party itself. Although many of us might aspire to be the type of host who can do it all, most guests actually like to make themselves useful. Cooking together is also a terrific way to make new friends, as any feeling of shyness or awkwardness is quickly overcome by common purpose. Some recipes benefit from many hands in the kitchen. Foods like empanadas, dumplings, and tamales are best made in groups where people can fold, wrap, and/or roll while talking and enjoying one another's company As the saying goes, many hands make light (and delicious) work. Forgo perfection in favor of connection. Of course, you want great food, but most people will remember the feeling of festivity as much as what they ate. Enlisting your family and friends in the cooking process has advantages beyond getting the meal on the table. If you want to throw a party but fear you'll be overwhelmed, remember to share the effort. There is strength and fun in numbers.

how to feed your people HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Menu cookbooks can seem intimidating, with multiple courses and elaborate timelines. This book encourages you to build the meal around one central dish and then invite others to provide any additional elements. Did you spend the day making lasagna? Serve a simple green salad and have a guest or two bring dessert. Is baking your specialty? Invite friends over for dessert and coffee and ask them to bring after-dinner drinks. Want to host an ice cream social but don't have an ice cream maker? Ask the guests to bring their favorite store-bought ice cream and you provide stellar homemade sauces and other toppings. Building a meal centered on one big dish simplifies the process and creates excitement around the meal itself. The dishes included here embrace many different cuisines and levels of cooking difficulty. Most recipes yield about ten servings with tips and ingredient lists for a double batch. If you need more food, you can add the two lists together or you can double the larger batch. Before you decide to go too big, however, keep in mind how much food can reasonably be prepared in your kitchen. Each recipe provides information for various steps and components, assembling them in these categories: MAKE-AHEAD provides guidelines for what can be prepared in advance and how to store it, to reduce the amount of the work on the day of the get-together. EQUIPMENT outlines any larger-than-average cooking pots and pans, special tools, and other kitchen gear you'll need. BIG BATCH NOTES share tricks that will come in handy for making the food in crowd-friendly batches. SERVING presents advice on how to dish up the meal, with reminders for condiments and possible side dishes, special tableware, and other details. INGREDIENT NOTES give helpful basic information about foods that are unusual and may be difficult to source. Many recipes list all of these categories, while others offer only those that apply. Recipes for some favorite side dishes have been included, should you want to flesh out the meal on your own or offer them to guests to make. If you are assigning recipes, keep in mind how much room you have in the oven or microwave for reheating. To avoid an overstuffed oven, rely on room-temperature dishes, salads, and appetizers or sides that don't need to be cooked. MAKING IT HAPPEN The secret to hosting a party for a crowd: Make Lists. Create lists for invitations; shopping; the menu, including all of the items that will be supplied by your guests; prepping; tableware; and anything else you can think of. SHOPPING TIPS | | In addition to adding fun to the adventure, consider bringing a friend or two with you for shopping to help check off items on the list, gather the ingredients, carry the bags, and (perhaps most important) unload your purchases at home. When you have a really big list, divide and conquer. Send your friend to one part of the store while you concentrate on another department. You can also assign shopping tasks, especially if multiple stops? butcher, baker, florist, farmers? market, liquor store'are required.

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